OBDII in indian cars

I was interested in an OBDII sensor for our car here and wanted do buy a ScanGuageII for it. The compatibility information available at http://www.scangauge.com/ was inadequate as it mainly dealt with cars made in USA. While searching for compatible cars in India, I came across these posts at Team-BHP and there really are a few cars with OBDII interfaces. From what I read there, it seems none of the cars made by Maruti Autos work with standard controllers even though they claim to have it and even feature a port for the same. So, in a nutshell, if you have a car from maruti autos, don't even dream about a OBD2 controller as its gonna be a waste of money. There are claims that most of the cars by GM, Honda, Ford all work with OBD II. So, choose your next car wisely if you wanna sport one of these geeky gadgets ;)

Labels: computers, electronics, geek, hardware, obd2

Wii VR hack!!!

Now this is something super... This guy managed to create a 3D VR environment by using the Nintendo Wii controller and some infrared LEDs. Check this out, truly amazing.

Go to his site, http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~johnny/projects/wii/ and scroll down for the topic "Head Tracking for Desktop VR Displays using the Wii Remote". It is a definite must read!!

Labels: 3D, computers, games, hardware, Virtual Reality, Wii

USB-Serial

Here is something every ham shack should have. As you all know there are many rigs which needs a connection to the computer's serial port for software control. And these days the number of serial ports available on most of the main board is limited to just one. This is simply not enough for the needs of an amateur or any electronics enthusiast. Yes there are several el cheapo USB/RS232 adapters available. But I have always wanted an industrial quality serial port adapter to go with my shack. Here is something I came across recently and found it does the job very nicely in controlling my rigs / id-o-matic and a PIC burner. I don't have to fiddle around the cables anymore.

Check out their line of products.
http://www.usbgear.com/USB-Serial.html

Or, If you wanna do it like an average electronics - computers geek, here is what you need.

Four USB to serial Adapters, they cost you like $5 USD a piece.
One 4 port USB Hub - $3
Some high quality ribbon cables (Cables from your old IDE hard drive cables is great).
An enclosure where you can fix all these stuff. Make proper holes on the front panel for RS232 connectors and a single USB port connector on the back of the enclosure.

1. Remove the casing of these adapters and remove the USB connectors from each of those adapters, and wire a 4 wire ribbon cable to where the connectors of socket were.

2. Remove the female sockets from the hub after taking off its cover and solder the 4 wire cable to the socket connections directly. Make sure the connections are correctly done as we are dealing with built in power supply.

3. Do the above 2 steps for each of the other 3 USB serial adapters.

4. Now , connect all these adapters to the back of the front panel, and tighten the screws on the RS232 connector in the adapter so that they don't move.

5. Fix the USB hub board on the base of the enclosure using a couple of spacers.

Connect a USB cable to the hub and see if everything is working properly. In some hubs with LEDs on each of the USB connectors, you can extend them using a simple 2 wire cable to the front panel, or you can extend the LED on the adapter itself to the front panel.

6. You don't need to provide additional power source for these ports, USB cable supplies enough voltage to drive these 4 ports.

Pack everything and enjoy. Total cost of this project will be lesser than $25.

Cheers!!

Labels: cable, computers, electronics, hardware, RS232, serial, USB

Dealing with RF interference

Here is a guide that deals extensively into RF interference.

Here you go.

RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE (RFI) Notes
M.D.Lowell, N1LO October, 1998

Progress: Through July 1999 archive

Check http://www.qsl.net/n1lo.


Another very well documented guide here.

http://www.kyes.com/antenna/interference/tvibook.html

Make sure you make good use of these guides.

Labels: amateur radio, cable, computers, electronics, ham radio, hardware, HF, interference, radio, RF

Build your own Vacuum Tube?

This guy is crazy!!, He even makes his own vacuum tubes!!

http://paillard.claude.free.fr/

The page is in French, but use the Google translator link provided to read. Very interesting video there.

Labels: amateur radio, DIY, electronics, geek, generic, ham radio, hardware, HF, how to, radio, RF

PSU Sleeving Guide

This guide is written by archer_456 of overclock.net. Whatever follows is his work. The original content is available here.

--- BEGIN ---

Everyone has a case that are proud to show off, but when someone looks inside, the first thing they see is a big tangled up pile of wires
coming from the PSU (Power Supply Unit)!! We are going to fix that by applying a nylon woven sleeve to the wires. I hope after you finish this guide,
you will have a nice organized, sleeved PSU, that your friends will jealous of.


I do not take any responsibility if you get hurt or your PSU is damaged. This does VOID your warranty. DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!


Note: I do not take very good pictures, because of my nerves, I tried my best! If you noticed that some of the connectors are different colors,
it’s because when I was sleeving mine I forgot to take some off the pictures, so I had to take some pics of my old PSU.


Here is what you are going to need:

· A very, very small flat head screwdriver, like an eyeglass screwdriver.

· Universal Molex Pin Remover or any very thin and stiff, trust me it is a lot easier with the Molex remover.

· ATX Connector/12v P4 Connector Removal Tool. , or any very, very thin and stiff, I used two small staples

· ¼” sleeving. ½” sleeving, 2’ of 9mm heat shrink tubing, 3” of 25mm heat shrink tubing. All the colors are up to you. I used an all in one
Vantec sleeving kit from newegg.com.

A word of CAUTION: The PSU does retain some voltage after cutting it off, it is recommended to either press the on/off button several times
after you turn your computer off or by using a jumper wire from the PS-ON (green wire) to a black common wire as in the picture below.
I also verified that there was no voltage by using a Multi-meter.


Just for argument sakes, I plugged in the PSU, turned it on by using the jumper wire I mentioned above, let it run for a minute, then removed
the jumper and unplugged it. When I unplugged it I replaced the jumper wire to turn back on, unplugged, and the fans cut back on for
about 1 second. As you can see, it does retain the voltage.


This is what we are starting with. It’s a “Antec True430” PSU



Before we start, I have to clear up a few things. Some people sleeve the wire all the way up and into the PSU. This does look a lot better,
but that means you will have to open the PSU. If you are not comfortable with working inside the PSU, then stop the sleeve where the wires
go into the PSU. I stopped mine at the PSU because of 2 reasons: I am too lazy, and when I took the cover off I found it to have very, very
tight quarters. Plus there wasn’t any way I was going to be able to fit the sleeves and all the wires through the hole in the PSU.


Next step: Standard 4 pin Molex/floppy Molex wires


The first set of wires we are going to sleeve is one of the standard 4 pin Molex and floppy drive Molex combination wires.
Start by cutting off the Tie wraps holding the wires together. Now start removing the Molex connectors.


4 pin Molex plug:



Before removing any of the wires, make a note of the order in which the wires go in. Now take the Universal Molex Pin Remover and insert it into
the hole sliding over the female pin, while pushing the remover over the pin you can hear a slight click as the clips compress.
Once you have the remover seated over the pin depress the plunger and out pops the wire.


Note: If you have a hard time getting the wire out, wiggling the remover and slightly tug on the wire.
Do not force the wire out, the pins can break easy.


Note: Take note of how this pins looks and how it works, the P4 ATX and the 20 pin connectors use the same kind of pin.
This will come in handy when you work with them.


After you have the Molex off go on to the next one.


Floppy drive power connector:



Before removing any of the wires, make a note of the order in which the wires go in. To remove the pins on the floppy connector,
use a very small flat head screwdriver and place in the open slot on top of the connector. Press down slightly and depress the
clip and gently pull out the wire.


Note: If the wire will not pull out, try pushing the wire further into the connector and then depress the clip.
Sometimes the clips will get hung on the connector and cause them to bind.


Here is what you will have after all the Molex plugs are off.



Now that we have all of the Molex connectors off, it’s time to start sleeving. Start by measuring the length from the PSU to the first Molex.
Now cut a piece of the ¼” sleeving and cut to the length you previously recorded. After cutting the sleeve,
use a lighter to singe the ends of the sleeve so that it doesn’t start to unravel on you.


To make things easier, you will have to bend pins back against wires, as in the picture below, so the sleeve will slide over them easily.



Note: It will work a lot better if you can wrap the pins in some tape or something so that they don’t snag on the sleeve when you slide it over them


Expand the sleeve, and insert the wires.




You will have to use an inchworm type movement while sliding the sleeving over the wires. Start by pushing the sleeve on to wire until
it bunches up then pull out the slack with the other hand and work your way all the way up the wires. Push – Pull – Push – Pull – Push – Pull.


Once you have the sleeving where you want it, cut two 1” pieces of the 9mm heat shrink (one for each end) and slide them over the sleeving.
You want the heat shrink to cover ½” of the sleeving and ½” of the wires.


Use a lighter, hairdryer, or heat gun and heat the heat shrink until it has completely shrunk around everything. Once it stops shrinking take the heat off of it.
Be careful not to get to close to the sleeving because it will melt a hole in it. Trust me I found out the hard way.


Once you have both ends done, remove the tape if you used it and push the pins back into the Molex connector.
Be sure to place the pins in the correct order. Refer to the picture below if you forgot.



Now start on the next section of wire. Use the same method as above. Continue this until you are finished. The finished product will look like this;
well it will probably look better than this because you took your time right!!! I didn’t, I’m impatient.




Next step: P4 ATX power wire


The next set of wires we are going to sleeve is the P4 ATX power wire.



Before removing any of the wires, make a note of the order in which the wires go in. I used some tape and numbered each wire.


This connector is a little trickier than the standard Molex plugs. It’s the same type pin but you don’t have round hole, its square.
For this you need to use an ATX Connector/12v P4 Connector Removal Tool. If you are as cheap as I am you can use two small staples or anything stiff and
real thin to compress the clips (Yes it does hurt your fingers after a while). First make sure you label the wires before you remove them
so there isn’t any confusion when you put them back in. Insert the ATX Connector/12v P4 Connector Removal Tool (or staples) and compress
the clips on the pin and pull the wire out.


Note: If the wire will not pull out, try pushing the wire further into the connector and then depress the clip. Sometimes the clips will get hung
on the connector and cause them to bind.


Now once you have the connector off, measure the wire and cut the amount of ¼” sleeve you will need. Using the same method you used with
the with the standard 4 pin Molex and floppy drive Molex combination wires, start sliding on the sleeve and heat shrink, etc.
Making sure you have the wires in the correct placement, replace the connector. And presto change-o à





Nest step: 6 pin Auxiliary power connector


Now we can start on the 6 pin Auxiliary power connector. This is done by using a 6-Pin Auxiliary Removal Tool; I used the very, very small screwdriver.
First make sure you label the wires before you remove them so there isn’t any confusion when you put them back in.


Insert whichever tool you decide to use into the smallest hole to depress the clip, now gently pull the wire out.



After the wires are loose you can sleeve it using the same methods as before with the ¼” sleeving and 9mm heat shrink.



Nest step: 20-pin ATX power cable


Now for the big boy, the 20-pin ATX power cable. Yes, this is the hardest one of all; well at least it was for me.


VERY Important note: Make sure you label these wires. If you get any of them mixed up, it would be very hard to get them back in order!!!!



We will be using the same tool for this as we did for the P4 ATX connector, ATX Connector/12v P4 Connector Removal Tool. , I
used the good old staples again (I regretted it afterwards, ooouch!). Go ahead and remove them one by one by one by one until all 20 of them are out,
remember to label them as you pull them out!





Note: If the wire will not pull out, try pushing the wire further into the connector and then depress the clip.
Sometimes the clips will get hung on the connector and cause them to bind.


After you have all the wires loose from the connector, go ahead and measure and cut some ½” sleeving.
Tape everything up, slide on the sleeving and two 1” pieces of 25mm heat shrink, shrink it down, and replace the connector.




Next step: Final Step!!!!


Here is a finished picture of all the hard work we did.


Put the PSU back in the computer, sit down, drink you a cold one, and enjoy.


The only thing I didn’t cover was the ATA power cables. I didn’t se any way to get the connector off.
You might be able to get some real big sleeving and stretch it over the connectors.


Thanks, for checking out my PSU sleeving guide!! If you have any questions, suggestions, or if you notice anything wrong,
feel free to email me at archer_456@yahoo.com or stop by the forums at Overclock.net. and post it.






--- END ---

Labels: computers, hardware, Power supply, Sleeving

Silicon Chip (Australia) Projects

A good list of projects came in Silicon Chip Magazine
Download location at the end of post.


6-Channel IR Remote Volume Control - Part 2
10-Channel IR Remote Control Receiver
12-channel Infrared Remote Control
12V Flourescent Lamp Inverter
45-Second Voice Recorder Module
A 2_4GHz High-Power Audio-Video Link
A Digital Thermometer-Thermostat
A Dirt-Cheap, High Current Power Supply
A Low-Cost 50MHz Frequency Meter
A Poor Man's Q Meter
A Programmable Continuity Tester
A Programmable PIC-Powered Timer
A 'Smart' Slave Flash Trigger
A 'Tiptronic-Style' Gear Indicator
A Windows Based EPROM Programmer
A Windows-Based EPROM Programmer - Part 2
Active 3-Way Crossover for Loud Speaker Systems
Adjustable DC-DC Converter For Car
Alternative Power Regulator
Antenna & RF preamp for weather satellites
Appliance Energy Meter, Pt_1
Appliance Energy Meter, Pt_2
Automatic Single-Channel Light Dimmer - Part 2
Automatic Single-Channel Light Dimmer
Balanced Microphone Preamp
Bidirectional Motor Speed Controller
Big-Digit 12-24 Hour Clock
Build A Professional Sports Scoreboard, Pt_ 2
Build A V8 Doorbell
Build A Water Level Indicator
Build An AVR ISP se-ri-@l Programmer
Build The Decision Maker
Bulid Your Seismograph
Car Battery Monitor
Carbon Monoxide Alarm
Charger For Deep-Cycle 12V Batteries, Pt 2
Circuit Notebook 3
Circuit Notebook 4
Circuit Notebook 5
Circuit Notebook 6
Circuit Notebook 7
Circuit Notebook -8
Circuit Notebook -9
Circuit Notebook -10
Circuit Notebook -12
Circuit Notebook
Circuit Notebook-
Circuit Notebook=
Compact 0-80A Automotive Ammeter
Component video to RGB converter
Controlled Automatic Table Lamp Dimmer
Courtesy Light Delay For Cars
Digital Instrument Display for Cars - Part 1
Digital Instrument Display for Cars - Part 2
Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs - Part 1
Direct Conversion Receiver For Radio Amateurs - Part 2
D-I-Y remote control for a model train layout
Dr Video Mk_2 An Even Better Video Stabiliser
Driving Light and Accessory Protector for Cars
ESR Meter 1-Mk_2
ESR meter hints
ESR Meter Mk_2
Fridge-Door Open Alarm
Getting into WiFi, Pt_ 3
High-efficiency power supply For 1W Luxeon Star LEDs
Home-Brew Weatherproof 2_4GHz WiFi Antennas
Improved Speed Controller for Universal Motors
Inductance & Q-Factor Meter, Pt_1
Inductance & Q-Factor Meter, Pt_2
IR Remote Control Checker
keyb18xa_bas-
Lapel microphone adaptor for PA systems
Lead-Acid Battery Zapper
Level meter for home theatre systems
Linear Supply For Luxeon 1W Star LEDs
Long-Range 4-Channel UHF Remote Control
Long-range 16-channel Remote Control System
MIDI Theremin, Part 2
More Fun With The PICAXE - Part 3 Heartbeat Simulator
More Fun With The PICAXE - Part 4 Motor Controller
More Fun With The PICAXE - Part 5 A Chookhouse Door Controller
More Fun With the PICAXE A Shop Door Minder
MUDLARK A205 Valve Stereo Amplifier
Not Another CFL Inverter
OLED Displays Better Than Plasma Or LCD
One-chip Transceivers for easy UHF Data Communications
PIC Controlled 32-LED Knightrider
Picaxe-18X 4-channel datalogger
PICAXE Application Special PICAXE 08 Port Expansion
PICAXE Application Special PICAXE Telephone
PICAXE Infrared Remote Control
PICAXE- Part 9 Keyboards 101
PICAXE The New Millennium 555
PICAXE(s) -are these chips the New Millenium 555
Poor Man's Metal Locator
Portable PIC Programmer
PortaPAL Public Address System - Part 2
Printer Port Hardware Simulator
Programmable Flexitimer
Real Yagi Antenna For UHF CB
Receiver For Radio Amateurs - Part 2
Remote Volume Control For the Ultra-LD Amplifier
RFID Security Module
RFID Tags - How They Work
Rolling Code 4-Channel UHF Remote Control
RTTY Modulator
se-ri-@l Stepper Motor Controller
Shorted Turns Tester
Shut That Mutt
Silicon Chip 1
Silicon Chip 2
Silicon Chip 3
Silicon Chip 5
Silicon Chip 6
Silicon Chip 7
Silicon Chip 8
Silicon Chip Electronics 4
Silicon Chip Online - A Lap Counter For Swimming Pools
Silicon Chip Online - Low Cost 1HZ 10MHz Function Generator
Simon Says
Single-Channel Light Dimmer - Part 2-
Smart Card Reader and Programmer
SMS Controller, Part 2
Solar Powered Wireless Weather Station
Starpower - A Switching Supply For Luxeon Star LEDs
Sunset Switch
SuperCharger Addendum
SuperCharger For NiCd & NiMH Batteries - Part 2
SuperCharger For NiCd & NiMH Batteries
Telephone Dialler For Burglar Alarms
Telephone Headset Adaptor
Test Your Reaction Times With A Digital Reaction Timer
The Battery Guardian
The Coolmaster Fridge-Freezer Temperature Controller
The Mesmeriser
The Micromitter Stereo FM Transmitter
The PICAXE Part 6 - Data Communications
The PICAXE Part 8 - A Datalogger and Sending it to Sleep
Three Do-It-Yourself PIC Programmer Kits
time lapse camera
Updating the PIC Programmer and Checkerboard
USB Power Injector
USB-Controlled Power Switch
Versatile Micropower Battery Protector
Versatile Multi-Mode Timer
VHF Receiver For Weather Satellites
Video Enhancer & Y-C Separator
Video Formats Why Bother
Video-Audio Booster For Home Theatre Systems
Whistle & Point Cable Tracer
White LED Driver
WiFry Cooking up 2_4 GHz Antennas
1-A Programmable Continuity Tester
1-SMS Controller Pt_1
4 Digit Crystal-Controlled Timing Module
4-Minute Shower Timer

http://rapidshare.com/files/56390000...chip_part1.rar
http://rapidshare.com/files/56398409...chip_part2.rar
http://rapidshare.com/files/56405234...chip_part3.rar

PASS: dcapro

Labels: electronics, hardware, magazine, Project, rapidshare

Interests and Projects

Community Wireless Network in my small town.
* Complete Wireless roaming within the town and optional long links..
* Centralised AAA facilities. Single Sign-on to use any service available within network.

Inventry So Far
* 3 Pringles Cans (Empty now :))
* Couple of N-Female Radiators
* Couple of Pig tailes
* 2 Old computers ready to run on CF cards and act as gateways!, Pretty Solid, eh?

Yet to receive
* Nokia GPS Module LD-3W (Bluetooth), Bought it for mapping + antennae alignments.

Yet to Purchase
* A foundry L3 24 port Switch (Available for around $100 in ebay!)
* Parabolic Grid Antennae (Got a good source who can give it real cheap, around $20 a piece)
* A couple of old DTH antennae (Got some nice offers, Money!!, Damned Money!!)
* 3 WRT54GSs, Lost them to an eBay sniper (One day i will have them and these guys will be loaded with Freifunk)
* Intersil PRISM based wireless NICs for the PC based nodes. (This one is getting rare)


Voice Over IP services
* Free In-Network Calling using VOIP (SER)
* Cheap Unlimited Calling to more than 20 countries (200 Rupees PM for Primary Country and 50 Rupees PM for every additional countries) Planning to use Broadvoice and fwdOUT ;)
* A couple of X100P clones are waiting for me to have some spare money..


Partner in Crime > Sajith @ http://www.sajith.org

I need support for this project, Any one who are ready to put in their efforts are welcome.
Please donate your Old computers, Wireless routers to the project and we can make good use of them!

Labels: computers, electronics, hardware, interference, Project, voip